This body employs New Zealand Halloysite, a super-white-burning kaolin from New Zealand. To that it adds the highest quality ceramic plasticizer available, making it the most plastic clay body you likely have ever used (of any kind)!
Disclaimer: Please match your expectations to the reality of what Polar Ice is. It is expensive compared to our other bodies because of the cost of materials and difficulty of production. But Polar Ice is not nearly as expensive as it would be if we were to purchase special filter-pressing, slurry-screening and pre-pugging equipment to guarantee top quality. We actually make it by mixing the powder and water right in the pugmill! Why? It is too plastic to be slurry-mixed (without huge quantities of water), too sticky to be filter pressed or extracted from a prepugger! Our production method is the only way it is possible. But that comes at a cost: Some fired specks and hard chunks. But if you are willing to make a commitment and adjust your expectations, you will be able to make ware that was once impossible for potters.
Polar Ice is not ready-to-use out-of-the-box. It comes out like a rock and then softens to a sticky, unusable mass when wedged! Flatten pieces on clean plaster bats to dewater for a while, then wedge thoroughly (repeat until it is no longer sticky). When it is wedged really well and the stiffness is right it will want to go taller and thinner than any clay you have ever thrown!
At times you may find surface discolouration on the slugs from bacteria growth (if the material is old).
If you wish to make your own by mixing the kaolin, feldspar, silica and Veegum we recommend the L3778D recipe.
Process Properties
Using Polar Ice is more of a commitment than other bodies. Compromises are required and expectations are different.
Plasticity: Polar Ice is extremely plastic. Others claim to be plastic, but they use the word in a relative sense (meaning "a little less short than other really flabby porcelains"). However Polar Ice is only plastic when stiff enough (do not attempt to use Polar Ice if it is too soft).
Stiffness: To properly pug it we must make it too soft. However, it stiffens over time. Consider keeping a box of stiffer material to wedge together with softer. Failing that, reduce water content on a very clean plaster surface or leave a lump under a cloth. When wedging together different stiffnesses or clay that has been stiffening on a plaster batt it is imperative to do so thoroughly or throwing and drying will be adversely affected (wedge until the surface feels evenly sticky). If you are unable to wedge effectively it is better to use a different body.
Stickiness: This is the most prominent side effect of the plasticity. It will stick to your hands, to the table, to the cutting wire, anything that touches it. During trimming it will stick back to itself and tools. If you attach ware to the wheelhead with water to trim, it will stick fast. After trimming it balls up under your fingers if you attempt to round corners by pressing on them. However when stiffened to optimal throwing stiffness, it is much less sticky.The stickiness is an asset when joining, the slip glues it well (if adequate pressure is applied).
Drying: Porcelains do not dry as well as stonewares or bodies with particulates. You will get the best results if the clay is not too soft, ware is not too thick, contours are smooth, wall thicknesses are even, joins are few and done with thick slip, the degree-of-wetness in all parts of a piece is kept equal throughout all stages of drying. Large pieces are best made on plaster bats so the bottom can stiffen with the walls. The worst drying performance will occur with thick ware made from very soft clay, the use of non-absorbent bats, where vessel walls are thick at the bottom and thin at the lips or edges, walls are of uneven thickness with lots of joins or abrupt angles (giving cracks a place to start) and where drying is uneven (e.g. lips and edges are permitted to stiffen early on while lower sections remain soft). Large, flat plates are the most difficult shapes to dry, it may be necessary to stretch the time out to a month or more to achieve the even drying needed for success.
Polar Ice is more difficult to dry than most other porcelains. For the most foolproof process consider conducting the entire process under cloth and plastic, changing the cloth every fews days. This can take weeks, but will give a much higher success rate.  
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